Cielito Lindo: A Baja Institution (Go for the GIANT crab alone)

Winding down the Mexico trip, I was hightailing it back to the USA border from the Sea of Cortez and I'd promised a Baja-savvy pal of mine that I'd hit up one of his favorite Baja dives, Cielito Lindo in the rambling valley of San Quinten.  This establishment was absolutely worth the five frustrating times I got lost trying to locate it (his directions were a hair off).  Anyway, after hauling up gravel down a narrow road that dropped practically into the Pacific Ocean at Gypsy Beach, I finally spotted the place.  It was the only restaurant there and the dirt surrounding it was jammed of dozens of vehicles.  I loved the ramshackle old-school interior, the utter remoteness of the place, the juicy crab claws (though next time, I'd say skip the paprika and do it up with just butter) and most of all the smoky black bean soup peppered with chunks of bacon.  It was the perfect spot, I just wish I had more time to spend there.  I did, however, have time to meet a saucy/wasted old-timer who lived in the trailer park out back....after giving me the once over, he screamed to the entire bar that I was "stacked like a brick shit-house."  Then he howled with laughter and sheer delight at his own cleverness.  Good Christ.