Oh so many years ago, I took off like a light down to a land I'd never been privy to. I was on a short mission to learn to sail, cause you see, I'd bought a small vessel (25 sailboat) on ebay and had no idea what to do with the mini-beast. My dad - sage of all sages - said, "MST, when you want to learn to sail the only place to do it is the Sea of Cortez." That one phrase began my wildly untamable Mexico musings....and, off I went.
I shot my old trusty Explorer down Highway 1 all the way to Loreto, a small colonial village about a day and a half from the border (via LA). The man of the sea I was to meet - I can't remember his name for the life of me - had built an interesting life down there - instructing for NOLS, teaching sailing to intrepid individuals like me, and maybe rousting up a bit of coin giving sunset sails on his 24' sloop. He biked everywhere, had a small house with fruit trees that he shared with his family, and seemed generally happy to have made a life in a land very few outsiders frequent.
I was thrown into sailing like a tornado. It was just me and him, day after day.
Me - "Ummmm, this weather seems a bit tsunami like!" Him - "Take the help, girl!"
In that short week, I learned as much as I could, chomped on sleeves of oreos while hove to in the middle of the sea, weathered nasty swells (at least in my inexperienced, panicked eyes), and had the time of my life. Then it was time to go. I still use my face to read the wind to this day - even when I'm not on my boat.
Now - next week - I'm headed back to the wilds. This time to get my advanced diving certificate from PADI. My new teacher/dive instructor is a funny cat who happens to own a dive shop in Mulege. The stories, I'm sure, will be epic. Night dive in the Sea of Cortez, with the water all salty hot and a storm of stars leading the way. God, sounds divine.
Who knew I'd develop such an affinity for Baja and all she has in her underbelly. Same goes for the ocean. Who the heck knew. Wonder if the salty old sailor is still there in Loreto? I know I once had a chat with Hemingway there. I'm telling you - it was HIM!!! He even bought me a coffee. Not sure I can expose his photo though - he must be on the slippery slope of off-radar'dom. Much like Elvis.
There is no better place to disappear than Baja, I tell you that. And, it's the unsung hero's, teacher's, instructor's, maestro's, guide's, expert's, and straight up folks-who-have-cojones to ditch the map of life and take chances in lands deemed unfit by the masses that make dreams possible for people like me.
If they are out there, I will find them.
The Humbolt Squid is showing up in the waters where i live on Vancouver Island .
Posted by: Robert William Wallenberg | May 02, 2010 at 01:09 AM
My dad goes on and on about this squid as well. It will def. be an interesting dive scenario. Going to buy an underwater camera right this minute.
Posted by: misty | May 01, 2010 at 09:00 AM
Somehow, I know you are gonna have some major fun. Baja is so surreal at times and you are a perfect 'bajafanatica'. Happy trails amiga. xo gina
Posted by: Cowgirl | April 28, 2010 at 03:46 PM
Watch out for the dreaded Humbolt Squid.
Posted by: Robert William Wallenberg | April 26, 2010 at 10:39 PM