Big Sweet Tooth

Chef Diesy, The Panuch Queen

When I say I miss Mexican food, these little babies are what I am talking about.  While I was on Isla Mujeres, I used to head over to Jorge and Diesy's house for lunch in their bright pink kitchen every couple of days.  Diesy would have spent the morning (usually with a string of kids flipping around) putting together panuchos...sometimes they were smeared in beans, other times they just had a little cheese, egg, onion, cilantro and tomato.  And, always, always, I'd douse them in giant squirts of crema and a hit of crazy spicy charred pepper...and for real, they were the most delicious thing ever.  Lis almost had a heart attack when I took her over there for breakfast one morning..the first bite is literally that breathtaking.  So clean, simple, fresh and homemade.

I'm not sure I've ever had panuchos before being welcomed into Diesy's kitchen, but these little treats ( I could easily chow on four in one sitting) are what I am on the hunt for while I am out here in LA.  It's tough to go on a for real MST discovery fest, especially since all I do is work and I've got less than 3 weeks left here, but I promise, I will make it to East LA before I roll.  I want tostadas and panuchos--real ones. 

Bubu Takes Some Photos**

One day I was getting a pedicure on Isla at my fave families house and my little buddy Bubu (see last photo) snatched up my camera and started snapping away.  Here is the Bubu montage.  I love 'em! 
She's already a champ with the camera if you ask me.  I mean...look at the lighting, the composition, the depth of field.  Nice work Bubu.

Pleased as punch, Bubu*

Bubu Buries Misty

Playa Norte is definitely not my fave beach on Isla Mujeres.  It's just too crowded.  But, I did love getting buried there by crazy little Bubu one sunny afternoon.  She covered me with sand in a NY minute while Lupita played with shells and only halfway buried Alex.  If you've never been buried in sand, I suggest you try it immediately.  It's cool, calming and serene.  Especially when you are a couple/few down.

The snorkeling out by the rocks is pretty decent at Playa Norte...but man, that God awful looking hotel in the background is just a killer.  Oh, and everyone on the beach freaked out over a baby star fish.  I mean, full crowds were drawn, cameras were busted out, video was being shot.  Who knew a itty-bitty star fish would be such a novelty on a tiny island in the middle of the Carib.  You'd have thought that a giant talking whale had washed up on the beach from the commotion that was caused. 

I guess I passed out soon after that ruckus.

Oh, I'm For Real--It's a Plastic Island

I know I keep going on and one about Isla Mujeres, but I'm just not done with the place yet.  It's too magical.  Too simple.  Too happy.  One post would never be enough, so just bear with me for a few more entries and then we shall move into the madness of me making my way across 3,000 miles of pure Mexico to get to LA.  A hint...I finally dug into Mexico City...

So, one day, I'd had a couple/few (MST lingo meaning beer before noon) and was trolling around the island when I noticed some young hitchhikers with thumbs out.  I never pick up hitchhikers (well, for the most part).  But, something about these two kids made me stop (the boy was toting what looked like a yoga mat but was really a sleeping pad).  Or, I guess I stopped because I knew the island so well by this time and if there are couple of newbies on board, well hell...why not give them a ride and get their take on things?

Once they loaded in, Saschia and Chelsea told me that they were headed to plastic island.  Do wha?  Man, I thought I was getting to know the place, but oh no...these two had a line on some dude who offered up free camp spots and food to peeps who would help him continue to build his plastic island.  Oh, hell yeah I'm in.  Saschia had been there before and had somehow left Isla, picked up Chelsea in Tulum and now they were back to live it up together.  Little Chels was about 22, studying Spanish in Merida, and dead in love with Sasch.  Even though they'd just met a week or so before.  Not sure where Sasch stood but on that front, bless her.

Anyway, we careened down the dirt road that led up to the campground and of course, there were already a couple of funny guys there--sorting out bottles, talking about what to fire-pit up for dinner, and really, just delighted that a couple of chicks had shown up to their usually men-only campground.  Saschia proceeded to haul me and Chels out to this tiny plastic island just off the beach.  It was pretty dang cool.  This cat (who was in Cancun at the time) had figured out a whole new life game plan and was building an island made of plastic.  Simple as that.  He'd even built a mini model of what the monster would look like someday and I gotta say, I did lay in the bed and gaze up at the sky thinking some pretty cool thoughts.  I mean, this is a whole new level of sustainable living.

I explore the grounds (nice T-pee shower) while dinner was being concocted--this meal had Sascha whipping up some chile-infused pasta, of which I partook in two giant bowls and a whole lotta beer and scuba-diving heavy convo.  It was a funky night because I wondered ALOT what would my path have been if I'd chosed not to head to LA at the age of 20 and instead just globetrot.  Not sure my life would be much different, but maybe...just maybe...

Plus, those two treated me with a 6-pack of Pacifico for giving them a ride.  How nice.  Of course, I shared it with them over dinner, but still.  What random things one comes across when not really looking.  It's the best.  Have you ever in your life read shorter sentences.  No.

Lolo Lorena and Espresso Bliss

There are days when you simply do not want a Nescafe.  Sometimes it works for you--like when shoving a piping hot tamale on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere as you're driving toward the USA border...but whilst on Isla Mujeres, I usually hooked myself up with either a cappuccino at Manana or a sorta-cortado at a new little cafe called Lolo Lorena Bakery (just south of the marina). 

I would have to say that the cortado at her place was the winner (well, for as far as cortados go...Manana will always be #1)...only because the delicious smells wafting up from the rear kitchen were deadly.  Croissants, sweets, pan con chocolate.  For real, when you have had it up to here with Mexico (which I NEVER did)...roll into this small French-style cafe and grab a flaky croissant and a simmering pot of straight espresso with cream and copious amounts of sugar.  The whole blend is lethal and enough to drive one mad. 

The owner is also building some cute rooms to let above the shop (done in a few months, MAYBE) and also puts together this fantastic 3+ course Chef's meal where you pay a set price for dinner and she just serves up whatever is fresh that day.  I love it.

See, that is what I grew to adore about this little island.  So much different food, all over the place.  There's French, Italian, Mexican, Mediterranean, Mayan, Middle Eastern, and all sorts of other yummy stuff around every corner.  If it was just all Mexican, all the time, it might get to be a bit much (or not).   But, I have to say that on a tiny island 5 miles long and where you could practically spit and hit the other side, well...there's def. some good shizz happening.  It's sorta like the island version of Roger's Park, my Chicago neighborhood.  I miss you La Unica.

Casa O's, Peppery Ceviche and Blue Every Way You Turn

Beside the killer ceviche Jorge and Chef Roger made for the Pilates retreaters on the Cooking Workshop day of the PURE retreat, the very best that I inhaled on Isla was the mixed seafood version at Casa O's.  It's a tucked away palapa-style restaurant on the southeast side of the island and I was so pleased with the coldness of their beer and the spiciness of their ceviche (I now that the exact amount of pepper is the key to perfect ceviche) that I went back four days in a row. 

On the fourth day, I was talking to my favorite waiter and he informed me that I could go snorkeling off the wooden pier that juts out from their front door.  Oh really? 

Not too many people know that it's a free beach and though it seems like the pier is just theirs and theirs alone, it's quite the contrary. Anyone can play off the edge of it and the very next morning, I crawled over the knee-high stones surrounding Casa O's (per his instructions) and proceeded to shimmy on down the pier and dive in.  There weren't as many fishies around as other places I've snorkeled around Isla, but I loved having the entire pier to myself and lazing around for hours.  And, honest to God, even I look at these photos now and am stunned at the crystal blueness of the water and the perfect blueness of the sky. 

I ask you, how could someone in their right mind not want to partake in this glory every day? 

Chicken in the Truck

The first night that Lis arrived on Isla, I trotted her first to Manana for a few beers and then treated her to the culinary delights of the chicken guy.  The one who has his little pollo pit rockin' all day long.  It's on the West side of the island, just down the way from the little French looking bakery and has all the basics:  sopes, panuchos, pollo.  The food is so tasty and crazy cheap...and the perfect to go style food.  You get these little baggies of rice, beans and salsa along with a pile of steaming tortillas and charred chicken.  Maybe $5.

We happily chowed down in my dusty truck like a couple of fools (to the delight of all passerbys) before heading back to Casa Ixchel for a swim/near death wash away in the ocean.  For real, after a few cervezas at Manana, you better watch out how close you get to the water.  I feel like Lis could have straight never come out and just floated off into the horizon.  That's what pals are for, I think.  When you are in your deepest moment of content joy and sheer bliss, they are right there to rip you straight back into the madness that is reality.  Friends forever.

La Lomita--A Local Institution

Ah, La Lomita.  Once, when I was on Isla a year or so ago, I had fantastic chile rellenos there, though this time I didn't see them on the menu.  So, I went for the octopus drenched in butter.  Hi delicious meal X a gazillion.  I can only say this bright-as-shit gem of a restaurant is forever consistent and always up to snuff with the good stuff. 

When you order a beer, I think a kid runs to the grocery store down the block to purchase one and then slings it out on your table as if it just came from the rear kitchen. There are random cats slinking around hunting for scraps and some free bean soup rolls out with each dish.  It's a perfect mix of locals, expats, tourists and loners.  Nothing party like about it in the least. ..in fact, it is dead quiet.   And, definitely nothing real special about the decorations.  Just good food and cheap tickets.

Of course, on my last day on the island, I zoomed by when the doors were shut and saw a sign for chile rellenos on the door.  Maybe it's just not on the menu?  I also witnessed a crazy good looking bowl of sopa de lima plowing out of the kitchen.  Next time, for sure.

 

El Hurache...Again and Again and Again...

One of my all time fave places to eat on Isla Mujeres is a small, locals-mostly joint called El Huarache (it's just around the corner from La Gloria, the little English schoolhouse).  Nothing on the menu is over a few dollars and for real, they make everything to order including the unbelievable empenadas, huaraches and quesadillas.  But, these pups aren't just normal quesadillas or regular run-of-the-mill empenadas.  They are so dang superior to everything you've ever had made with maiz, you'll find it impossible not to keep ordering more and more and more.  And, then to top it off right, one MORE!

The TV is always blaring, the light is god-awful, someone is always passed out, not a soul is ever particularly delighted to see you, and there is no alcohol served.  I truly adore it. 

Tapas on Isla Mujeres...Sorta...

Funny, I never expected to find a quasi-tapas joint on Isla.  Lis and I would haul ass by this dark looking bar every day while zooming around the island and one afternoon, it was begging for a pitstop.  Once again, I am at a loss for the name, but those of you who know Isla will find it across from the baseball field and those addictive shaved meat tacos. 

It was nothing more than a giant room full of colorful locals and a jukebox.  We'd no sooner ordered a few beers when loads of baby plates full of food came out.  All topped with tiny toothpicks.  Yum. 
There was tuna, cukes and jicama in chile (my fave), potato salad, ham and cheese cubes, pineapple and chile, chips and salsa...along with lime and salt, of course.  What a glorious shove down we had.  The table was soon accosted by a real friendly guy who spoke not a lick of English, but kept buying us beer (he was in love with Lisa, ha!) and then a few more fellas, one of whom I loved to death.  He was a very handsome gentleman from Cuba but was now on Isla and about to open a girls dance school.  He wanted me to come be his assistant.  Could you imagine?  Can't wait to share that news with everyone!

Meanwhile,  I guess I'd love to.

Things quickly turned to chaos around our table.  Numbers were being exchanged, phones were whipped out, ID's were being shown off (don't ask me why), and laughs were had by all.  We ended up roaring out of there and over some tacos down the road, I discovered the Cuban's cell phone in my little bag.  He must have been freaking out, but when we returned it a few hours later, he just said he wasn't worried because he knew we were good people.  Right-o.

Good people.  Good island.

A Fish Goes Down Hard....

Yeah...so, one day me and the gals were trolling around picking up ingredients for the PURE cooking workshop and Deisy wanted us to stop by a relative of her's house so she could grab some food that was just made and needed to be on the way to Alexandra's (her daughters) school---at least that is what I think I deciphered. 

All access was ON in the kitchen for fish de-gutting and I wish I'd had time to try the food at this little restaurant located on the south side of Isla.  I mean, with a kitchen like this and mad dedication going hand in hand with it...how could the grub not be fantastic??

Wish I knew the name of the place.  Next time I'm on Isla Mujeres for sure...this will be pitstop #1.  And for real...guess I'm moving to the island.  Why not, hell....

And seriously, I cannot wait to get the horrified emails from the peeps freaking that I've laid out photos in this way.  BUT DUDE, this is food.  This is what you eat.  This is from the source.  This is real.  This is Mexico. 

And, this is what you should all aspire to witness--and taste--one day. 

The Coldest Beer on Isla Mujeres....

The coldest beer on Isla Mujeres is found at a local spot just a short walk from the ferry (sorry, my love, Manana).  I can't remember the name but it is across from the Social Justica seafood joint and has a string of yummy beers perched in the window.   

Why so cold?  Dunno, but they have a special fridge that houses beer only and it is literally steaming cold fumes when it arrives at the table.  Lis and I guzzled them with wild delight through the course of the day (breakfast, lunch and dinner) and over reviewing Sailor Jim's notes, Lis even assisted in attempting to help me get that damn nail polish off--like I said, I'm not a mani person!  I also dig that a toothless fella hawks natural beauty supplies while I drink, too.  LOVE IT.

They also churn out haunting tostado's that have stalked me across the whole of Mexico this past week. I keep searching for the EXACT replica, to no avail.  It's tough to find veggie tostados that have flavor, but these kids have it down---along with funky, jacked-up forks galore. 

And, for the record, I have a real tough time remembering the name of anywhere.  I just know where it is, what they serve and how good the best thing goes down. 

My Favorite Family on Isla Mujeres -- And My Favorite Food

Seems like everywhere I go, I adopt a local family.  This time, on Isla Mujeres, it was the family of Jorge, the handy man at Casa Ixchel.  Never have I met such incredible people.  From sweet and innocent Lupe to Bubu, the hysterical wailer, to Alex the coquetta, to Deisy the mama bear/incredible cook, to Henesis the Julia Roberts look-a-like to Audy the Danny Yankee lover...I fell in love with each and every one of them.  I grew so attached the family as a whole, it became really hard to focus on the PURE retreat instead of them. 

The whole week was packed with the family--Deisy and Jorge were the chefs for our cooking workshop so there was always something to do---shop, plan, eat.  Me and Lis decided to support the gals and pay their way through an 8-week beginners course in English school (La Gloria) partly because it will help us when we return later this year.  They practice English with us and we continue to practice Spanish with them.  And, Deisy happily cooked for us a half dozen times.  The best ever empenadas and sopes (con creama), all thrown down with some cervezas. (More on this food later).

At some point in time, Audy treated me to a pedicure and manicure.  Sol's a flowin'.  I never get a manicure because I kill it minute one.  I'm too much of a tomboy, I guess.  No matter, this wasn't any old mani/pedi.  The whole gang was involved.  I had my Spanish book out while Lupe rocked some homework.  I learned a few new translations that have been crucial throughout the week:  drunk, dirty, ugly, boyfriend, never.  Go figure.  It was legend. 

Why was it legend?  Because these experiences are exactly what travel is all about all.  Local connects, intuitive moments, home-grown food...they all equal giant moments in the bit of time that is life.   No preconceived expectations are ever met, but oddly without knowing it, they are surpassed.  You can't really ask why.  You just flow.

Sometimes You Can Sail Without Being a Sailor

One of my favorite spots in all of Isla Mujeres is a little bookshop/restaurant called Manana.  I wrote about it on my last trip here and this time, I fell even more in love with it.  Every day, you run into the same faces over and over.  It's kinda like Manana makes the island go 'round.  It's a hotspot for all the relaxed folk on Isla and one day me and Lis were chillin' at one of the open air bar windows when a funny little diddy named Jim rolled by.  He was wondering if my laptop picked up wi-fi and before Lis could slam another beer, he'd invited us out onto his sailboat for some snorkeling adventures.  I love how a sailboat always tracks me down no matter where I end up. 

Early the next AM, Lis and I headed out with Jim on his dinghy to his boat.  He'd just bought the beast and sailed down from Florida.  Of course, he had no idea how to sail, but he just knew that he had the money and the balls.  Sometimes that's all it takes.  In fact, most times you need even less than that.  A couple of wrecked boats, cave blowouts, coral burns and bellowing guffaws later, me and Lis had determined that Jim would be a buddy for life.

He gave us a tour of Against the Wind (from Nashville, TN and not the boat pictured) and for real, the boat was decked.  I had the best shower off the stern of his boat that I've ever had in my life.  The interior was stacked with crates of Jiffy mix, freezers full of meat, three friggin' GPS units, a gold panner...I mean, Jim had hit up everything before setting sail. It made me SAD as hell that I'd just sold my own boat, but lifted me into a whole new excited frame of mind at the idea of buying a new vessel.  I might need one a little bit bigger than a 30 footer.  Yikes!  But, in LA for sure...I gotta be able to leave the boat in water year round. It's just that simple.

After determining that we'd do our best to stay in touch, we established a communication mode (scribbled notes under a pink rock just off the dinghy dock), had a few beers with some of his new sailing pals at an octopus joint, and hit the road.   

Well, first Jim busted out his hand-drawn map to the port authority.  Poor thing.  He'd not checked in with a soul upon arrival.  You gotta love it. 

Meanwhile, this was Day 1.

Hello Bright Pink Home-Applied Mani from Isla Mujeres...

See, this is the funny things about blogs.  You never know where the action is happening in real time. You might think you do, but in reality the blog could be weeks or months behind what is really going on.  Case in point--I've just spent 2 weeks on Isla Mujeres, a tiny speck of an island off the coast of Cancun,  yet not a soul has any idea what just shook down in my life. 

My PURE Pilates retreat just wrapped up and I have one more night on the island before I start the long-ass drive back to LA.  Alone.  Thank God.  I've spent weeks in the company of others and as special as the times were, I relish in being along.  Dead alone.  At all times.  It's so easy to get back to the MST basics--nothing but me, my truck, my moments in time, and all my glorious stress-free space in the universe.  I like it.  No, actually, I love it.

These one-shot-says-it-all photos lays out my trip in a nutshell, but over the course of the next week or so, I'm gonna backtrack and spread it all out like a stain.  A big, fat MST-infused Isla Mujeres spillover that I just don't want to end.   Ah, but the thing to remember is that all the adventures keep on 'acomin.  That must just be my plot in life.  I accept it.  For sure...all the time.

One More Find on Isla Mujeres: Loncheria Tacos Tumbras

I guess I straight up LOVE Nescafe and Huevos Rancheros early in the morning.  I'd been wandering around the island early in the AM on the hunt for something to chow on and the only place open at that early morning hour was this tiny loncheria on the far north side of the village.  Just as they were finishing up sweeping the patio, I grabbed a seat and ordered a coffee and some huevos rancheros (one of my fave things to eat in the history of the world).  The cook immediately whipped out her jar of Nescafe and made me a delicious mug of "fresh coffee" and a few minutes later, out came my huevos.  They were not quite like I'm used to having them and instead of a couple of eggs perched on a pile of beans and smothered in red ranchero sauce, these eggs were happily poised on top of a couple of crispy corn tortillas and then sprinkled with a few crumbles of tart queso.  On the side was a spoonful of mashed beans and a small salad.  Just plain old delicious.  I sat there for about 2 hours drinking cup after cup of sweet and milky coffee and watching all the locals swing by with bags of eggs in their hands, the days newspaper and an early morning "hola."  It's all the simple stuff that makes me love this tiny island so much~~I gotta get me some of that Nescafe.

Loncheria El Pimo's $1 Pork Tacos

For some reason, when I travel, I find myself doing regular, everyday things at really odd hours of the day.  Strawberry daiquiri at 9 AM?  Bring it on.  Cafe con leche at 7 PM?  Hell, why not.  It's like this little button of resistance toward all my usual habits turns on and I want total opposites all the time.  This is how I found myself at Loncheria El Pimo (just a 3 minute walk from Casa Ixchel on Isla Mujeres) at 10 AM (holiday breakfast time) having a slew of messy pork tacos.  I'd cruised by the open door shack knowing that something delicious was on the stove, but having no idea what it would be.  Being that my Spanish is a little rough (try alot), I just peered thru the little window, pointed to the first thing I saw (a pot of pork and tomato stew simmering away) and said "taco."  Done and done.  A sleepy-eyed gal immediately hurried out of the kitchen and scooted down to the tortilleria I'd passed along the way and a few minutes later, rolled back into the kitchen with a big bag of freshly made tortillas.  My taco only had avocado on it, and the juice from the tender pork soaked all the way thru the middle of the tortillas, but after two bites, I only had two words to say to the cook.  "Uno mas!"  She just laughed (like she'd known all along that I couldn't eat just one of her tacos) and brought me another.  Of course, after that little feast, it was naptime on my favorite deck-bed with a good suspense thriller at 11 AM~

Tiny Loncherias on Isla Mujeres = The Best Food on the Island

One of the best loncheria's (tiny, hole in the wall, mom-n-pop eateries) I discovered on this trip to Isla is Loncheria Manolotis. It was just up the road from my hotel and I'd been riding my back (after a long, healthy nap of course) and literally stumbled across it.  I managed to get stuck in there during a torrential rainstorm, but it was fantastic.  Just me and the Mexican soaps blaring into the dining room. The food was so cheap, I just kept ordering.  When I tell you it was the BEST chile rellenos I've tasted, I'm not kidding.  None of the typical gooey cheese or smother in tomato sauce.  It was just freshly fried and packed with ground pork and then splashed with crema and queso.  I had several made to order cheese empenadas (80 cents each) and a taco as well.  Throw in a couple of orange drinks and this was a $5 dollar meal made in heaven.  Isla has dozens of these loncehrias all over the island and they are the very best way to help add tourist dollars to the community.  Plus the food is superior~

Isla Mujeres--From the Plane

This tiny little island is by far one of my favorite places to fall off the grid.  Though it's just a 20 minute boat ride from Cancun, it's like touching down in a completely different world, especially if you explore the south side of the island (where more locals live).  I just got back from spending a few more days there and this trip was all about total serenity.  Last time, I was all over the place, exploring every single nook and cranny, where as on this one, I stayed close to my lovely beach front hotel (Casa Ixchel) with a bunch of good books and a ton of naps.  I guess I never realized how sleepy I was until I got in between the cozy white down comforter at Ixchel.  Hell, I couldn't even lay out in the sunshine without falling into a blissful nap.  I did eat some amazing food from a few little loncherias (I'll post later on those) and spent some time drinking mojitos and daiquiris in town, plus hung out at Manana (the best little bookstore/cafe ever), but beyond it was all about just chillin' by the pool.  What a glorious trip~

Manana Restaurant & Bookshop, Isla Mujeres

This is one of my favorite shops in the entire world.  It's a tiny bookshop, cafe, watering hole on the island of Isla Mujeres and I swear to God, it is the EXACT sort of establishment that I would own.  Littered with shelves full of books, an open kitchen and seating area, freezing cold strawberry daiquiris, a health-conscious menu...I mean, what else is there?  They even load up the cocktail to go if you want it for the road (who doesnt love wandering around a village with drink in hand?).  In just a day or so, I will be plopped right at that very bar you see in the photo, slugging a perfect rum-laced daiquiri and soaking up the sun.  I bet a gazillion dollars a place like this would do great in Chicago and I got all jazzed after my first trip to Isla thinking I should open it!  Then, I realized that the less assets I have, the better.  For now. I like to be light and lean, definitely, but I think if I do open a place like this, it has to be coastal...you know?  In the perfect little fishing village.  A place I could stay forever.

Casa Ixchel, Isla Mujeres is Where it's at~

Honest to God, what else is there to talk about, think about, daydream about, and obsess about than Mexico?  Man, I work like mad...and hardly ever have a day off, but you better believe when I get a minute at the end of my current project...you know where I'm heading.  I really want to balls-out drive from Chicago to the Darien Gap, but since I will probably just have a four day weekend, I'll probably jam on back to Isla Mujeres.  To Casa Ixchel to be exact.  I totally adored this little hotel on my last visit to the island and can't wait to get back there, pick out my bicycle and cruise the island, swilling' margaritas the whole way.  Miguel the manager, is the sweetest thing ever and Jorge, the handyman, changed my favorite bikes tire so I could spend the day rolling about the island (bikes are free when you stay here).  Plus, my room was right by the pool and ocean and every night, I'd leave my windows open so I could fall asleep to the crashing surf.  That is the thing about Mexico. I forget everything--work, bills, responsibility, life as I know it.  Pure freedom, thru and thru. And who doesn't need more of that?  Barefoot and tanned with rum in hand is what IT is all about, si?

Tikinxic...because I'm Loyal~

I know I keep going back to Mexico, but it's because I'm loyal.  Really, I am.  I'm loyal to my family; loyal to my friends; loyal to my cafe con leche maker; loyal to my love of a country; and loyal to my joy in peasant food.  And tikinxic is Mexican peasant food at its finest.  It's as simple as this.  You troll around the Carib at the crack of dawn and catch a slippery fish.  You clean and gut fish.  You filet fish.  You slather fish with lime, salt, beer and some sort of funky red achiote mixture (annatto).  You toss fish on grill. You ignite 5' fire and char fish to succulent perfection. You devour fish with a Tecate chaser.  It is just that easy to live off the land (and sea) in Mexico and that is where my MAD respect for the country comes into play...over and over again.  It's pure tradition mixed with deep loyalty and it's the sort of thing that makes me happy.

Dolphin Cookies = Smiles all the way around

Like most, I spend my days scheming about the future and in all my tropical fantasies, there is one thing I know for sure.  If I ever come to own a small cafe somewhere in Mexico, I will be serving sugar cookies shaped like dolphins with the house coffee.  What a happy treat, don't you think?  I ran across this tiny surprise at Elements of the Island cafe on Isla Mujeres and was immediately smitten.  I'd been searching out the yoga studio/cafe/rooms for rent establishment my entire time on the island (well, between frozen liquor-laced drinks) and finally found it my last morning there (of course, never bothered to ask a soul)...I was insistent on stumbling upon it.  With my crazy good granola, I had some organic coffee and this little dolphin cookie showed up all chirpy and cute.  So, yes!  Tack this one to the long list of to-do's for the future.  **Open cafe on beach...serve dolphin cookies with coffee.  Easy as pie~